by Gary Foreman of The
Dollar Stretcher
gary@stretcher.com
Dear Gary,
What is the best deal to look for in a credit card? I do not
know how companies compute charges. I know there are things you
need to avoid. They can use tricks and I want to be wise as I
can be when selecting a card. I am one that cannot pay the
balance off so I play the game of switching to a card with the
lowest interest rate.
Karen P
Karen's right. Selecting a credit card isn't as easy as it
used to be. But this is a good news / bad news story. The good
news is that you can get a card that's tailored for you. The bad
news is that you'll need to compare a few different cards to
find it.
Begin by considering how you use your credit card. Do you pay
it off each month or carry a balance? What about late charges?
Do you trigger one a year? After a review you'll be in a
position to compare the features of different cards to find the
one that suits you best.
Remember that your credit card costs will be made up of the
total of a number of charges: the interest charged on the
balance transferred, the interest charged on new purchases,
annual fee and any late fees. We'll briefly look at each area.
Let's begin our search for the perfect card by comparing
interest rates. Karen is probably getting offers that promote a
"low introductory rate". And a 2.9% rate does seem low
compared to 4.9%. But how many dollars will Karen save? To find
out we need to calculate her interest expense.
Getting a rough figure for interest charged isn't really that
difficult. All you need is a hand held calculator. Take your
monthly balance (for example, $2,000) and multiply that by the
interest rate (say 10% or 0.1). That would give you an interest
charge of $200 ($2,000 x 0.1). That's the annual interest
charge. You'll need to divide that by 12 to get the monthly
interest ($200 / 12 = $16.67).
You'll probably need to do two of these calculations. Why is
that? Because most card issuers will charge one rate for the
old, transferred balance. That's the advertised
"introductory rate". But, they'll charge a second,
higher rate for new purchases called the 'full indexed' rate.
Karen will want to estimate how much she'll spend in new
purchases each month. Her monthly payment will go to reducing
the old, transferred balance. And her new purchases will
gradually build up until her entire balance is at the full
indexed rate.
To be precise, Karen should calculate both interest charges
for each month of the year. But there's a shortcut that will
give her a pretty good idea of what she'll be paying. Just
compare the transfer balance to her expected annual purchases on
the card.
For instance, in our example Karen was transferring $2,000.
Let's assume that she'll make $6,000 of new purchases in the
year. If her balance stays the same, her monthly payments will
have wiped out the original transfer in three months. So the
intro rate will be gone pretty quickly.
To further complicate matters card issuers are allowed to use
different methods to calculate the amount of interest that you
owe. The best method for the consumer is one that uses the
average daily balance but excludes new purchases. That means
that new purchases don't accrue any interest charges until after
the payment date. If you pay your entire bill each month you'll
get this method.
The next method uses the average daily balance but adds any
additional purchases that you make during the month. That means
that if you charge lunch today, you'll begin paying interest on
that money tonight. This method is the most commonly used.
The final method is called 'two-cycle average daily balance'.
This method includes your balance for the previous two months
and generally will cost you more in interest payments.
Don't try to calculate these methods with a calculator. When
you compare cards just check how they calculate interest and
choose the one that's most favorable to you.
What else should you look for? Some issuers will give you the
option of choosing a 'fixed' or 'variable' interest rate. The
fixed rate is generally higher. But the fixed rate isn't really
fixed. The rate can still change if the issuer gives you some
advanced warning. And that warning can be as little as 15 days.
Also check to see whether the intro rate is affected by late
payments. Many issuers will revert to regular rates if a payment
is just one day late. Ouch!
Watch out for fees. The banks have gotten creative in finding
ways to get your money. The most common charges are annual fees
and late fees. If you have a good credit rating there's no
reason to pay an annual fee.
If you carry a balance, you'll need to compare the amount of
interest you'll pay to the annual fee. Some annual fees are
approaching $100. But, if you carry a balance of $10,000 for a
year, a 1% lower rate will provide savings that equal the $100
annual fee ($10,000 x 0.01 = $100).
Late fees generally run from $20 to $35. Other fees are being
charged for exceeding your credit limit, taking a cash advance,
using an ATM or bouncing a check. Some really creative card
issuers have begun charging a closure fee. That's a fee for
closing your account. Read the card members' agreement before
you use the card to find out about fees.
The best strategy for Karen could be to carry two cards. The
first would be one that's offering a low introductory rate. Use
that one for any current balances. She'll find rates from 2.9%
up to about 6% available as this is written. And it's possible
to find one without annual fees.
The second card would be for new purchases that Karen makes.
With a good credit rating she'll find cards without an annual
fee with rates ranging from 8% to 14%.
Finding a good credit card does take time. But a few minutes
now could save you money every month that you use that card.
Gary Foreman is a former Certified Financial Planner who
currently edits The Dollar Stretcher web site www.stretcher.com/save.htm
Return To The Top
Read More Financial Articles